Impilo esiyaziyo, esakufundiswa esikoleni kanye nalokho okusezincwadini zethu kuye kwafakaza izenzakalo ezibaluleke kakhulu emlandweni wethu wendawo yonke, kusukela ezimpini kuya ekuvukeleni kanye nezinkulungwane zezinye izenzakalo. Nokho, kude izenzakalo ezinkulu, the isitayela sokugqoka Inkathi ngayinye nayo ixoxa indaba, iphawula izizukulwane nezimo zazo zezenhlalo, zamasiko nezomnotho.
Ikhulu le-19, ikakhulukazi, yabona izinguquko eziningi ezibalulekile. Leli khulu leminyaka lalibonakala ngenguquko kwezemfashini, ekhombisa izinguquko zezombangazwe, zezenhlalo nezomnotho ezazihambisana nentuthuko yezimboni nezobuchwepheshe. Ukuze sibone inkathi, sihlala sibheka indlela izakhamuzi zangaleyo minyaka ezazigqoka ngayo, futhi ikhulu le-19 linjalo.
Izingubo zamadoda ekhulwini le-19
Phakathi nekhulu le-19, imfashini yabesilisa yaba nenguquko ekhetheke kakhulu. Ngalesi sikhathi, izingubo zayeka ukuba nemibala egqamile futhi zibusheke njengoba kwakunjalo emakhulwini eminyaka adlule, ukuze kugxilwe kumasilhouette anengqondo futhi asebenzayo. Lokhu kwenzeke ngokwengxenye ngenxa yokukhula konxiwankulu kanye nemibono yabo ehambisana nezimboni kanye nomsebenzi.
I-Los amadoda onxiwankulu Babegqoka amajazi, okuyingubo okwathi ngokuhamba kwesikhathi yaqina emzimbeni. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu leminyaka, i-silhouette yashiya indawo yamahlombe amahlombe abanzi, ama-vesti kanye nezibopho ezibanzi noma ama-bowties. Kodwa-ke, njengoba ishumi leminyaka liqhubeka, ijazi lomsila lalizolingana kakhulu, libe namavesti amafushane nothayi abakhulu. Ngokuqondene nezicathulo nezesekeli, amabhuzu aphezulu kanye nezigqoko zomqhele ophezulu zazivamile ezindaweni ezihlelekile.
Ngaphandle kwejazi lomsila, ezinye izinhlobo zezingubo bezihlanganisa umLevi, uhlobo lwejazi elide, elimpintshayo, elalivamile phakathi kwamakilasi acebile. Amadoda angazange abe nenhlanhla engaka ngokuvamile ayegqoka amasashi kasilika namabhantshi alula, nakuba ijazi le-frock nalo lathola indawo yalo phakathi kwamakilasi aphakathi ngokulingisa okunganethezekile.
Isici sobudoda sasihlanganisa nokusetshenziswa kwe izinwele ezinde namadevu asontekile, agqamile namadevu aseceleni, izakhi eziningi ezaqala ukufanekisa isimo nemfashini yangaleso sikhathi.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-19, ukusetshenziswa kwesigqoko esinomqhele omkhulu kwasakazeka emazweni aseNtshonalanga, ngenxa yethonya lemfashini yamaNgisi, eyayibuswa iNdlovukazi uVictoria.
Izingubo zabesifazane ekhulwini le-19
Phakathi naleso sikhathi, izingubo zabesifazane ziba nezinguquko ezinkulu phakathi nekhulu leminyaka. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu leminyaka, abesifazane bamukela isitayela se izingubo zombuso, isitayela esibonakala ngokusikeka okuqinile ngezansi nje kwe-bust, okushiya ezinye izingubo zigeleze ngokukhululeka.
Khona-ke isitayela saba ngaphezulu okukhulu njenge onodoli, kanye iziketi ezenziwe kusukela ku-14 amamitha wendwangu Baba umkhuba owujuqu kule nkathi. Ngokufanayo, ama-mantilla kasilika kanye amakamu Kwakuyizesekeli eziyinhloko zesitayela futhi abadwebi bezingubo bangaleso sikhathi abazange bayeke ukusungula izinto ezintsha nge-embroidery nezindwangu zekhwalithi engcono kakhulu. Isitayela sowesifazane bekufanele sigqame ngaso sonke isikhathi.
Kulo lonke leli khulu leminyaka, abesifazane bahlanganisa nezakhiwo ezintsha ekumiseni iziketi zabo, njengepitikoti elinezinsika, okwaholela ezinhlobonhlobo zezinhlobonhlobo nezimo. Eqinisweni, impikiswano i-crinoline kanye nokuvela kwayo, kuyaphithizela, eyaphawula ingxenye yesibili yekhulu le-19.
Isitayela I-Mirañaque Yavela maphakathi nekhulunyaka, ivumela ukuziphendukela kwemvelo kumiklamo elula nengabukeki kangako. Abesifazane manje sebengakwazi ukunyakaza ngokukhululeka ngaphandle kokudela i-hourglass silhouette evamile. Isitayela Kuyaphithizela yavela kamuva, futhi yasiza ukushintshela ezimpahleni ezaziqinile engxenyeni engenhla yomzimba, enezicucu ezimbili ezihlukene—ibhodisi nesiketi—ezanikeza amathuba amasha okwenza okomuntu siqu kanye nesitayela sengubo.
Umthelela weNguquko Yezimboni kwezemfashini
Ngokufika kwe Ukuvuselelwa Kwezimboni, ekupheleni kwekhulu le-19, umkhakha wezingubo wathonywa ngokujulile. Intuthuko yezobuchwepheshe yavumela ukudalwa nokukhiqizwa ngobuningi kwezindwangu ezintsha, futhi lokho okwakugcinelwe isigaba esiphezulu manje kwase kufinyeleleka engxenyeni enkulu yabantu. Leli bekuyiphuzu elibalulekile ekubuseni ngentando yeningi kwezemfashini.
Kusukela ngawo-70, abesifazane baqala ukugqoka izingubo ezinethezekile nezindwangu eziguquguqukayo, kuyilapho izitayela zezingubo zamadoda zaba yinto engokoqobo, zibeka phambili ukunethezeka nokuhamba ngaphandle kokudela isitayela somuntu siqu. Amasudi ahlotshisiwe kanye nezingubo zosuku zaqala ukusebenza phakathi kwamakilasi asebenzayo.
Lokhu kuphinde kwavumela imfashini ukuthi ishintshe isizini iye kwesinye, into ebingenzeki emakhulwini eminyaka adlule ngomfutho ofanayo. Izincwadi zemfashini zaqala ukudlala indima ebalulekile ekusabalaliseni izitayela ezintsha, ikakhulukazi eNtshonalanga Yurophu.
Imfashini ne-haute couture ngekhulu le-19
Ikhulu le-19 alizange libone nje ukubonakala kwezingubo ezisebenzayo, kodwa futhi nokuzalwa kwe umbukiso. Umklami UCharles Frederick Worth Ngokuvamile ubhekwa njengomunye wobaba balo mnyakazo, owaletha ukwenziwa komuntu siqu kwezingubo kanye nokuqala kwezindlu ezinkulu zefashini. Amaqoqo ashicilelwe afanelekile kabili ngonyaka, aklama izingubo ze Empress Eugenia kanye nabanye abantu abavelele bangaleso sikhathi.
Ukuvela abaklami abadumile, ezifana Worth futhi kamuva Emile Pingat E-France, izochaza isitayela esihluke ngokuphelele kule nkathi, lapho abesifazane be-aristocracy kanye nonxiwankulu be-haute beya kuma-salon ukuze bakhethe izingubo zabo. Izinkathi zonyaka nezitayela zazisho ukuthi yini ezogqokwa.
Ukuvela omagazini ezikhethekile ezifana Ijenali yamaDames namamodi Wayevame ukunikela ngezithombe nezincazelo zamaqoqo amasha, okunomthelela ekwandeni okusheshayo kwemfashini yaseParis kwezinye izindawo ezifana neLondon, iVienna neMadrid.
Ngamafuphi, indlela yokugqoka ekhulwini le-19 yaba ukubonakaliswa okuqondile kwesikhathi sezinguquko zezimboni, ezombangazwe nezenhlalo. Kusukela kumasudi kanokusho onxiwankulu abaphezulu kanye nezicukuthwane, kuya emasudi acolisisiwe ezigaba ezithobekile, imfashini yayingufakazi kanye nomlingiswa oyinhloko wale micimbi.