La isiko le-punk kube ngesinye sezithonya kakhulu emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, sibeka izitayela ezedlula kokubili umculo nendlela yokuphila nemfashini. Nakuba ukunyakaza kwe-punk kwavela emculweni, i imfashini ye-punk Kushiye uphawu olungacimeki embonini yomhlaba wonke, ngisho nokugqugquzela abaklami be-haute couture. Ubuhle be-punk bubonakala ngokushesha: izingubo eziklebhukile, izinsiza eziwubukhazikhazi, nomoya wokuvukela osuzwe ezizukulwaneni ezimbalwa. Kodwa yiziphi izici ezibalulekile zalesi sitayela, futhi siye savela kanjani ngokuvumelana nezikhathi namathonya amasiko?
Umsuka wemfashini ye-punk
Imfashini ye-Punk inezimpande zayo ngeminyaka yawo-70, ixhunyaniswa negagasi lomculo elalithuthuka ngaleso sikhathi, elaliholwa ngamaqembu afana ne Sex Pistols y RamonesKodwa-ke, imfashini ye-punk yayingeyona nje inkulumo yomculo, kodwa futhi isitatimende sezombangazwe nezenhlalakahle. Ngezingubo zokugqoka, abalandeli be-punk banqabe imikhuba evamile yomphakathi. Izingubo zaba ithuluzi lokubonisa ukungavumelani kwazo nezindinganiso ezimisiwe. Izingubo ezidabukile nezidabukile, ezihlanganiswe nezinto ezifana nezikhonkwane zokuphepha noma izikibha ezinemiyalezo evusa inkanuko, zaba yizimpawu zakudala zomnyakazo. izingubo ze-punkNgaphezu kwalokho, phakathi nalesi sikhathi, umklami Vivienne Westwood Udlale indima ebalulekile ekudaleni nasekusabalaliseni ama-punk aesthetics. Isitolo sakhe eLondon kanye noMalcolm McLaren, Ama-seditionaries, yayiyisizinda semfashini ye-punk e-United Kingdom.
Izingubo ezibalulekile zesitayela se-punk
I-Punk ibonakala ngezimpawu ezimile ezivivinyweni zesikhathi futhi eziqhubekayo nokumelela umnyakazo:
- Izingubo ezidabukile: Zifanekisela ukulwa nemikhuba yokuhlanzeka nokuhambisana. Amabhantshi, amabhulukwe nezikibha ezidabukile ziyizingcezu ezibalulekile.
- Amabhulukwe esikhumba: Kuhlanganiswe nezakhi zokuhlobisa, njengamaketanga noma izikhonkwane, ziphuma ngaphakathi kwalesi sitayela.
- Amajakhethi ngokwezifiso: Ngokuvamile zenziwe ngesikhumba noma i-denim, zivame ukuhlotshiswa ngemilayezo ye-anarchist nezimpawu.
- Amabhuzu: Amabhuzu ezempi kanye UDkt. Martens, yizona izicathulo ezithandwayo. Namuhla, uphinda ubone amateku e-Converse ngokwezifiso.
Izimonyo nesithombe somuntu siqu
I-Punk aesthetics ayigcini nje ezimpahleni; izimonyo nezinwele zidlala indima ebalulekile ngokulinganayo. Esinye sezici ezibaluleke kakhulu ukwakheka okumnyama, okugcizelelwa ngokukhethekile kwi-eyeliner esindayo kanye ne-eyeshadow eqinile ngamathoni amnyama noma ensimbi. Izitayela zezinwele nazo ziyindawo lapho amapunk enza kahle khona. isidumbu Mhlawumbe esinye sezitayela ezaziwa kakhulu, nakuba okunye ukusikeka, okufana nezinhlangothi eziphuciwe ezinomsebenzi ogqamile wodayi, nakho, futhi kusavamile, kule-subculture. Imibala e-Neon nemibala egqamile, efana nogesi oluhlaza, opinki, noma oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, ibiyingxenye yokubukeka kwe-punk kusukela yasungulwa. Namuhla, lesi sitayela sithole izindlela ezihlukahlukene zokuhlanganisa nezitayela zesimanje, kodwa izici zaso ezibalulekile zihlala zingashintshile.
Punk namuhla
Nakuba imfashini ye-punk yaqala njengenhlangano ephikisana namasiko, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ibe yingxenye yemfashini evamile. Amabhrendi amakhulu amukele izici zayo eziningi futhi azikhangise emigwaqweni yezindiza emhlabeni jikelele. Lokhu akuvumelanga nje kuphela ukuthi abantu abaningi bamukele isitayela se-punk kodwa futhi kunikeze ukuthintwa okucolisekileyo nokunhle kakhulu. Eminyakeni yamuva, abaklami ezifana Andreas Kronthaler ukuze Vivienne Westwood noma isignesha Balenciaga Bawuchaze kabusha lo buhle, bengeza ukuthinta okuyinkimbinkimbi ngaphandle kokushiya ingqikithi yabo ehlubukayo. Ukuhlangana kwemfashini ye-punk nezindwangu zangaphansi kanye nezindwangu ezigaywe kabusha sekuke kwahlolisiswa, njengoba kubonakala emigwaqweni yezindiza eminingana yakamuva. Noma kunjalo, i-punk DNA isekhona. Izigxobo, isikhumba, izinwele ezidayiwe, kanye nendlela ye-DIY ibekezelele kuwo wonke amashumi eminyaka.
I-Punk inethonya kwezinye izitayela
Ukunyakaza kwe-punk akuzange kube nomthelela ezizukulwaneni ezizayo kuphela, kodwa futhi kwashiya uphawu kwezinye izitayela, ngokuvamile ezihlanganisa nezinye izinhlobo ze-subcultures. Isitayela IsiGothic, isibonelo, yamukela izici ezimbalwa zobuhle be-punk, njengokusetshenziswa kwezingubo ezimnyama, ezidabukile, nezisekeli eziwubukhazikhazi. Ngokufanayo, i- Grunge yama-’90s yathatha izici ze-punk, ikakhulukazi mayelana nemfashini yobudlabha kanye DIYNgaphezu kwalokho, izinhlobonhlobo ze-punk zenze ukunyakaza okuhlukile kobuhle, okufana i-punk eqinile, the i-pop punk futhi i i-skate punkNgayinye inezici zayo, kodwa zonke izidweba kusukela engqikithini yasekuqaleni yokunyakaza. Lokhu kubonisa ukuguquguquka okuyingqayizivele kwesitayela se-punk: ikhono lokuzivumelanisa nezimo nokuguquka ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ubunikazi bayo obuyisisekelo.
Izesekeli ngemfashini ye-punk
Enye yezinsika zesitayela se-punk ukusetshenziswa kokudala kwezesekeli. Izinto zansuku zonke, njengezikhonkwane zokuphepha, amaketanga, noma ama-brooches, zihloselwe kabusha njengezitatimende zobuhle. amaketanga namabhande ahlanganisiwe Ziyizesekeli ezimele kakhulu zesitayela se-punk. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uwathola kuma-jeans agugile noma amabhantshi esikhumba, le mininingwane inikeza ukubukeka umuzwa wengozi nokuvukela. Ngisho namabhande asehlakaleni esikhumba kanye nama- choker agxilile avamile kakhulu.
El ukwakheka futhi i ama-tattoos Ziyingxenye yezesekeli zemfashini ye-punk. Amapunk amaningi anama-tattoos aveza izinkolelo zawo zezombusazwe noma ahlonipha amabhendi ayisithonjana alolu hlobo. Lawa ma-tattoo, ahlanganiswe nokubhoboza nokunye ukuguqulwa komzimba, adala ubuhle obuhlangene lapho yonke imininingwane ixoxa indaba. Ukwenza kube ngokwakho kubalulekile lapha: into ngayinye egqokwayo inencazelo yomuntu siqu neqoqo, isici esiphawulekayo esihlala siphila kumfashini wesimanje wamapunk. I-Punk isiphile amashumi eminyaka ngoba, ngaphezu komkhuba wemfashini, Kuyisimemezelo sezimiso. Izingubo, izinwele zezinwele, izimonyo kanye nezinsiza akuzona nje izinto zobuhle: ziyingxenye yokuhlubuka okusathinta abantu abaningi namuhla.