La isiko le-punk kube ngesinye sezithonya kakhulu emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, sibeka izitayela ezedlula kokubili umculo nendlela yokuphila nemfashini. Nakuba ukunyakaza kwe-punk kwavela emculweni, i imfashini ye-punk ishiye uphawu olungacimeki embonini yomhlaba wonke, yaze yakhuthaza abaklami be-haute couture.
Ubuhle be-punk bubonakala ngokushesha: izingubo eziklebhukile, izesekeli eziwubukhazikhazi nomoya wokuvukela osungene ezizukulwaneni eziningi. Kodwa yiziphi izihluthulelo zalesi sitayela, futhi siye savela kanjani ngokuvumelana nezikhathi namathonya amasiko?
Umsuka wemfashini ye-punk
Imfashini ye-Punk inezimpande zayo ngeminyaka yawo-70, ixhunyaniswa negagasi lomculo elalithuthuka ngaleso sikhathi, elaliholwa ngamaqembu afana ne Sex Pistols y Ramones. Kodwa-ke, imfashini ye-punk yayingeyona nje inkulumo yomculo, kodwa futhi isitatimende sezombangazwe nezenhlalakahle.
Ngezingubo zokugqoka, abalandeli be-punk banqabe imikhuba evamile yomphakathi. Izembatho zaba ithuluzi lokubonisa ukungavumelani nezindinganiso ezimisiwe. Izimpahla ezidabukile nezinganakiwe, ezihlanganiswe nezinto ezifana nezikhonkwane zokuphepha noma izikibha ezinemiyalezo evusa inkanuko, zaba yizimpawu zakudala ze izingubo ze-punk.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, kule nkathi, umklami Vivienne Westwood Udlale indima ebalulekile ekudaleni nasekusabalaliseni ama-punk aesthetics. Isitolo sakhe eLondon kanye noMalcolm McLaren, Ama-seditionaries, yayiyisizinda semfashini ye-punk e-United Kingdom.
Izingubo ezibalulekile zesitayela se-punk
I-Punk ibonakala ngezimpawu ezimile ezivivinyweni zesikhathi futhi eziqhubekayo nokumelela umnyakazo:
- Izingubo ezidabukile: Zifanekisela ukulwa nemikhuba yokuhlanzeka nokuhambisana. Amabhantshi, amabhulukwe nezikibha ezidabukile ziyizingcezu ezibalulekile.
- Amabhulukwe esikhumba: Kuhlanganiswe nezakhi zokuhlobisa, njengamaketanga noma izikhonkwane, ziphuma ngaphakathi kwalesi sitayela.
- Amajakhethi ngokwezifiso: Ngokuvamile zenziwe ngesikhumba noma i-denim, zivame ukuhlotshiswa ngemilayezo ye-anarchist nezimpawu.
- Amabhuzu: Amabhuzu ezempi kanye UDkt. Martens, yizona izicathulo ezithandwayo. Namuhla, uphinda ubone amateku e-Converse ngokwezifiso.
Izimonyo nesithombe somuntu siqu
Ubuhle be-punk abugcini nje ezimpahleni, njengoba izimonyo nezinwele zidlala indima ebaluleke ngokufanayo. Esinye sezici ezibaluleke kakhulu ukwakheka okumnyama, okugcizelelwa ngokukhethekile kwi-eyeliner esindayo kanye nezithunzi eziqinile zamathoni amnyama noma ensimbi.
Izitayela zezinwele nazo ziyindawo lapho amapunk enza kahle khona. I isidumbu Mhlawumbe kungenye yezitayela ezibonakala kakhulu, nakuba okunye ukusika okufana nezinwele eziphuciwe emaceleni ngodayi ogqamile nakho, futhi kuyaqhubeka, kuvame kule subculture. Imibala ye-neon nekhanyayo, efana nohlaza, i-pink noma i-blue blue, ibe yingxenye yokubukeka kwe-punk kusukela ekudalweni kwayo.
Namuhla, lesi sitayela sithole izindlela ezahlukahlukene zokuhlanganisa namathrendi esimanje, kodwa izakhi zaso ezibalulekile zihlala zinjalo.
Punk namuhla
Nakuba imfashini ye-punk yaqala njengenhlangano ephikisana namasiko, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ibe yingxenye yemfashini evamile. Imikhiqizo emikhulu yamukele izici zayo eziningi futhi iziyisa kuma-catwalks emhlabeni jikelele. Lokhu akuvumelanga nje kuphela ukuthi abantu abaningi basebenzise isitayela se-punk, kodwa futhi kunikeze ukuthintwa okucolisekileyo nokunhle kakhulu.
Eminyakeni yamuva, abaklami ezifana Andreas Kronthaler ukuze Vivienne Westwood noma isignesha Balenciaga Baye bawuchaza kabusha lo buhle, bengeza umoya oyinkimbinkimbi ngaphandle kokulahla ingqikithi yawo yokuhlubuka. Ukuhlangana kwemfashini ye-punk nezindwangu zangaphansi kanye nezindwangu ezigaywe kabusha sekuke kwahlolisiswa, njengoba sibona kuma-catwalk akamuva ahlukahlukene.
Noma kunjalo, i-punk DNA isekhona. Izigxobo, isikhumba, izinwele ezidayiwe kanye nendlela yokuzenza ngokwakho kuye kwakhuthazela phakathi namashumi eminyaka.
I-Punk inethonya kwezinye izitayela
Ukunyakaza kwe-punk akuzange kube nomthelela ezizukulwaneni ezizayo kuphela, kodwa futhi kwashiya uphawu kwezinye izitayela, ngokuvamile ezihlanganisa nezinye izinhlobo ze-subcultures. Isitayela IsiGothic, isibonelo, yamukela izici ezimbalwa zobuhle be-punk, njengokusetshenziswa kwezingubo ezimnyama, ezidabukile, nezisekeli eziwubukhazikhazi. Ngokufanayo, i- Grunge yama-'90s yathatha izici ze-punk, ikakhulukazi mayelana nemfashini yobudlabha kanye DIY.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, izinhlobo ezingaphansi kwe-punk zenze imisinga yobuhle ehlukene, njenge i-punk eqinile, the i-pop punk futhi i i-skate punk, ngayinye inezici zayo, kodwa zonke zidweba engqikithini yasekuqaleni yokunyakaza.
Lokhu kubonisa ukuguquguquka okuyingqayizivele kwesitayela se-punk: ikhono lokuzivumelanisa nezimo nokuguquka ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ubunikazi bayo obuyisisekelo.
Izesekeli ngemfashini ye-punk
Enye yezinsika lapho isitayela se-punk sisekelwe khona ukusetshenziswa kokudala kwezesekeli. Izinto zansuku zonke, njengamaphini okuphepha, amaketanga noma izikhonkwane zokuphepha, ziphinda zisetshenziswe njengezitatimende zobuhle.
I-Las amaketanga namabhande ahlanganisiwe Ziyizesekeli ezimele kakhulu zesitayela se-punk. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi uwathola kuma-jeans agugile noma amabhantshi esikhumba, le mininingwane inikeza ukubukeka umuzwa wengozi nokuvukela. Ngisho namabhande asehlakaleni esikhumba kanye nama- choker agxilile avamile kakhulu.
El ukwakheka futhi i ama-tattoos Ziyingxenye yezesekeli zemfashini ye-punk. Amapunk amaningi anama-tattoos aveza izinkolelo zawo zezepolitiki noma ahlonipha amabhendi ayisithonjana alolu hlobo. Lawa ma-tattoo, ahlanganiswe nokubhoboza nezinye izakhi zomzimba, akha ubuhle obuhlangene lapho yonke imininingwane ixoxa indaba.
Ukwenza kube ngokwakho kubalulekile lapha: into ngayinye egqokwayo inencazelo yomuntu siqu kanye neqoqo, isici esiphawulekayo esiphila kumfashini yesimanje yama-punk.
I-Punk isinde emashumini ambalwa eminyaka ngoba, ngaphezu kwemfashini, Kuyisimemezelo sezimiso. Izingubo, izinwele zezinwele, izimonyo kanye nezinsiza akuzona nje izinto zobuhle: ziyingxenye yokuhlubuka okusathinta abantu abaningi namuhla.